Beginning: Lattice Training Log Part 1: Why Lattice? Predictions, Onboarding.

Previous: Lattice Training Log Part 10: Week 4 of Cycle 2. De-load 2. Board sends. Sick.

This was the week of Oct 17, the first week of cycle 3.

As you can see by the calendar, this week was pretty rough, training-wise. I had a trip planned for Fri-Sun, so my plan was to train Mon, Wed, Thurs and Sun. However, the sickness from last week came back with a vengeance and put me out of commission for the first half of the week. I managed to get a training day in Thursday (though I still wasn’t feeling 100%). Then I was on my trip till Sunday, and forced myself to put in another short session Sunday night (despite really, really, truly not feeling it).

When I realized I would not be able to train in the beginning of the week, I reached out to Billy and asked what I should cut. Just as a reminder, my weekly schedule consists of the following:

Climbing:

Fingerboard:

Strength

Conditioning / Hypertrophy

Flexiblity/Mobility

Of these, Billy cut the pulling & core hypertrophy workouts first. He also cut down the length of the max effort & bouldering circuit sessions to 30 mins each, so I could do them on the same day, as well as dropping one of the boulder play sessions.

He advised me that the boulder triplets and repeaters would probably be next on the chopping block.

I ended up dropping the boulder triplets, the other boulder play session, the flexibility work and the 5/3 ARC. I tried to get what I felt was most important (board climbing + core strength) on Thursday, and then what I felt up for (mostly just strength stuff) after the long drive Sunday night. You can see what I finally ended up doing in the calendar above.

It’s definitely not ideal but I think overall I salvaged the week pretty well. I don’t think I made a ton of progress this week, but I also probably did enough to not backslide. You can see what I managed in the spreadsheet.

This cycle I’m supposed to bump up the intensity of my strength work, going from 6RM to 4RM sets. Since I was still not feeling 100% last week, I decided to just bump up the intensity a bit and still attempt sets of 6. I’ll move up to the 4RM setup next week.

I am also supposed to up the intensity of the core workout. For toes-to-bar and windshield wipers, where I can actually complete the reps at the current difficulty, I’ll add ankle weights. However, since I still haven’t done two sets of 30s L-sit hangs and 8 one-legged levers, I’ll probably just keep those movements as-is for a few more weeks.

My hypertrophy work is going up another notch. I’ll be attempting 6 sets of 12 pull ups and Arnold presses instead of the previous 6 sets of 10.

I’m supposed to be reducing rest on my boulder triplets. I started at 1min in cycle 1, then 45s in cycle 2, and now down to 30s. I actually missed this part of the instruction for cycle 2, and I’m also going to be switching to doing the triplets on the tension board next week, so I guess I’ll keep the rests longer for now and see how the new stimulus feels instead.

Finally, I’m going to start increasing load on my hangboard work, now that I am consistently finishing all the sets/reps and my fingers have gotten a chance to get used to the stimulus.

Even though I only got an abridged max effort session, I got to try a bunch of V5s and found a few cruxes/project moves that I’m setting my sights on.

I like “And I’m dying”, since it demands a lot of body tension in very extended positions.

I also am pretty taken with Pilo

Despite being graded V5, it feels pretty much impossible to me. I’m psyched to work on the twisting/untwisting movement through the pinch.

Finally, the crux on Bus Stop feels quite similar to ZELDAWAVE (the V5 I projected last cycle), with a big vertical move to a good hold, with a high, awkward-to-engage foot.

Since I managed the crux on Punch Pinch (V6), I’m saving it for my sending sessions later in the cycle, and maybe I’ll try and add another problem into this set if I find something that has a very different type of movement or difficulty.

During my boulder circuit session I found a couple of easier V5s and a bunch of V4s that I will use for my boulder triplets next week. I’m really excited to see what that will feel like.

With de-load last week, and getting sick and travel this week, I’ve been spending a lot less time training lately. It made me realize that I actually miss the process, which I think is a good sign. I’m excited to get back into it next week.

Next: Lattice Training Log Part 12: Week 2 of Cycle 3. Finger injury. Sessions that don’t mix.